明星的誕生，五〇年代神秘而輝煌的象徵

一杯飄香世紀的明星咖啡，蘊藏了多少迷人的故事？故事的起點是1917年遠在俄羅斯的十月革命。這年俄共推翻沙皇政府，皇家侍衛隊的一員喬治．艾斯尼南逃哈爾濱，輾轉來到上海，1922年和同鄉布爾林．洛維奇在霞飛路開了明星咖啡館；上海淪陷後，顛沛流離又來到了台灣。

西元1949年，一個十八歲的建中畢業生簡錦錐與喬治．艾斯尼南在內的六位俄羅斯人，在台北武昌街開啟了明星一甲子的璀璨歲月。「明星」取自於「ASTORIA」俄語中「宇宙」之意，代表了星海中最美麗的那顆星。

從百年前的北國來到二十一世紀的南國，明星咖啡館承襲俄國皇室的血統，有1915年的古董食譜為證。而明星獨家的俄羅斯風味套餐、咖啡，與麵包店各式精美的異國西點，更成了當代流金歲月的縮影。每天下午，外國使館達官貴人的黑頭坐車紛紛造訪武昌街，選購如深受蔣方良女士鍾愛，俄國皇室御用的「明星俄羅斯軟糖」、「明星蘭姆核桃糕」，及台灣第一個的巧克力蛋糕，奠定明星在台北人心中，那神秘而輝煌的象徵。

A Star is Born: 1950’s – Byword of Mystery and Splendor

Within each cup of Astoria Coffee lies a fascinating story that begins with the October Revolution in Russia in 1917. That year, as the Russian Communists overthrew the Tsarist government, George Elsner, a member of the Royal Guard, fled to Harbin and then onward to Shanghai. In 1922, he and fellow countryman Burin Petter Noveehor opened Café Astoria on Shanghai’s Avenue Joffre. Shanghai fell to the Chinese Communists and the pair again uprooted and finally made their way to Taiwan.

In 1949, Elsner and six other Russians partnered with Archibald Chien, then an 18 year-old graduate of Jianguo High School, to open Café Astoria on Wuchang Street in Taipei. The name, a reference to the Russian word for “universe,” indicates the brightest star in the sky: a fitting name for a cafe that would go on to shine for a span of more than 70 years.

From its northern roots a century earlier to its southern home in the 21st century, Café Astoria has continued the heritage of its Russian royal family lineage. These early roots can be glimpsed from an in-house Russian recipe book, preserved from 1915. The café also continues to serve its distinctive mix of Russian meals, coffee, and fine, exotic pastries. These dishes hearken back to a golden bygone era when foreign embassy officials frequented the café on Wuchang Street, attracted by Astoria’s Russian soft candy and mazurka cakes, both are Russian royal family treats favored by Taiwan’s First lady Chiang Fang-Liang. Astoria’s chocolate cake, the first in Taiwan, further sealed the café’s place in the hearts of the residents of Taipei and made it a byword for mystery and splendor.

明星的陪伴，臺北六〇年代的文學沙龍

自詩人周夢蝶在咖啡館騎樓擺起書攤，許多文藝愛好者聚集在此，簡老闆夫妻倆以最溫暖的人情味，陪伴許多年輕藝文人士成長。作家如三毛、黃春明、林懷民、白先勇、楚戈、陳若曦、季季、方明等，導演編劇如吳念真、陳坤厚，在他們創作初期即流連於此埋頭寫稿，一支筆、一杯咖啡濃香，孕育出無數動人的文學傳奇作品。

畫家如李梅樹、楊三郎、顏水龍、朗靜山等，懷著理想與抱負，一筆一畫，繪出千百幅的人文關懷，展現台灣風情於明星的牆上。內斂而關愛的精神，讓明星成為台灣近代文學的地標，無可取代的文化沙龍。

1960’s : Celebrity Hot Spot and Literary Salon

Ever since poet Chou Meng-Tieh set up a book stand on its sidewalk arcade, Café Astoria has served as a gathering place for lovers of literature and the arts. Café owners Mr. and Mrs. Chien warmly welcomed young artists, among them writers Sanmao, Huang Chunming, Lin Hwai-Min, Pai Hsien-Yung, Chu Ko, Chen Ruoxi, Chi Chi, and Ming Fang, as well as directors and screenwriters such as Wu Nien-Jen and Chen Kun-Hou. Many of these literary patrons would linger here early in their careers to write, with a pen and a cup of coffee in hand, producing countless legendary works.

Many paintings adorning café’s interior walls showcase local sceneries by artists filled with idealism and ambition. Among them are works of artists Li Mei-Shu, Yang San-Lang, Yen Shui-Long, and Lang Jing-Shan. Café Astoria attracted them with a subdued and caring spirit that, steadily becoming a landmark of contemporary literature in Taiwan and an irreplaceable cultural salon.

1960~70 ~ 藝文界人士寫作的窩

1960-70: A den of artists

1959明星騎樓與周夢蝶書攤位置

1959: Poet Chou Meng-Tieh’s book stand on Cafe Astoria’s sidewalk.

 

明星的傳承，二〇〇四年迎接下個一甲子

歷經了時代的轉變與浴火的考驗，曾熄燈十五年的明星咖啡館，2004年再次為台北、為每位老客人、新客人點起閃閃發亮的燈。滿佈回憶的一張張原木老桌椅、經典依舊的溫暖氣氛、如昔的老靈魂與人情味，還有在當今俄國都難以重現的皇室美味。人們對明星咖啡館的依存之情，並不僅止於喝到一杯咖啡、一份餐點，而是渴望一段老派台北的敦厚時光。

創辦人簡錦錐將明星交棒給女兒簡靜惠，詩人周夢蝶曾以她的名字寫道，「簡，可以御繁；靜，可以制動；惠，可以得人心。」這段語詞，也無意中串聯起傳承與身教的動人之處，簡靜惠因時制宜調整了經營模式，卻恪守簡錦錐待人以誠、惟問初心的特質。明星咖啡館不負美食的核心價值，也在每一個來者的心中，留下純粹美好的感動。

Passing the Baton: 2004 – Embarking on the next 70 years

In 2004, after a 15-year hiatus, Café Astoria, re-opened to welcome customers old and new with a fresh start. The original wooden tables and chairs remained, evoking the memories and warmth of an early time, as did the café’s original soul and human touch. Its menu continued to highlight a delicious royal Russian fare now so difficult to reproduce, even in Russia. Patrons returned not only for the café’s warmth, a cup of coffee and a meal, but also from a longing for the goodness of old Taipei.

Founder Archibald Chien’s daughter Karen Chien took the helm of the revived café. The Poet Chou Meng-Tieh once composed an inscription from the Chinese characters of Karen’s name: “Simplicity can conquer intricacy; Quiescence can overcome restlessness; Kindness can win people’s hearts.” These words also amply describe the motto in which Karen uses to continue the legacy of Café Astoria. As the current owner, she has adjusted the café business model to meet the times, yet remained faithful to her father’s sincerity and original intention. She has also kept the café true to its core value emphasizing on quality and a spirit that continues to move customers with its purity and goodness.

2004 ~ 明星盞燈再現

2004: Relighting Astoria’s lamp